@scrappykat I am no skilful in this area, merely the inspector should have explained the implications of a croaky rafter. You may want to telephone them back and ask that question. I would be a little concerned that over time it could bear upon the support of the roof. Check with the experts. If y'all could it would be great to update this post with your findings. Thanks for posting.
TY for your answer :) The inspector advised us to contact a contractor and accept them check it and see about a "repair." I am the secondary offer, and so but got the written report ---wasn't actually at the inspection.
I spoke with my Brother(who is a home builder) and he said information technology shouldn't cost that much to fix depending on where it's at. Sometimes you can nail the same size boards on the sides of it. But without knowing for sure if it's an angle brace or the top or bottom cord he can't tell you for sure. There are deviation factors that he would need to know like how far the span of the roof is etc. But either style it shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars.
Concord with Melissa. If information technology'southward in the long straight part, it'southward only a matter of sistering both sides and then your good to go. If it is a "joint" position, information technology would exist a little more involved. But not to a point that it would deter me .
Termite inspection was expert yes?
TY all for the corking news!!! :) I take a picture of it simply its imbedded in a .pdf and I don't know how to go the picture out to post :? It is on the bottom of a long rafter, not at a joint, so information technology makes sense that information technology reinforcing it on either side would take care of it---whew! A relief---now I'k Really hoping I go this identify (my realtor is thinking the inspection report might scare off the primary buyers....).
Promise, there was/is no termite inspection. Never had i of these in all the homes I've bought and sold (or that my parents have bought and sold). Perhaps it'south because of our climate or something, just I don't believe termites are an issue effectually here???
That is nifty news! Both on the fix and the termites.
OK, and then you didn't have to pay for an inspection, why not spend a couple hundred bucks to get a structural engineer to look at the attic. In my feel as a Realtor, well-nigh good engineers requite a detailed study including the proper ready. In many cases, the fix can be done by the buyer or current homeowner themselves. Or, if you choose to fix without having an engineer check information technology starting time, have i wait at information technology after the repair to make sure yous've done everything correctly. This is a serious business organization and should be checked by a professional.
Why did information technology suspension? Has to be a reason and it won't exist practiced, I would have a contractor look at it, foundation settle?
Good Thought Morgan. If I become the primary, I will exercise that, among other things. The inspection report revealed lots of (what in my mind) little things----no GFCI and some "amateur" wiring, inadequate vapor barrier in crawl space, banality not elevated properly, hot h2o heater flue too close to insulation in attic (and no fire proof barrier), inadequate wall betwixt garage and house, some pest droppings (house has been empty for several months---its being sold every bit role of an estate), etc. then there will be lots to set :/ It's on h2o though and the toll is practiced so I really want information technology. Seller isn't going to ready any of these things (I did get them to give me $5000 at endmost toward a new roof which is nearing the end of its life co-ordinate to the inspection report).
This info you just shared can all be explained by codes. When they were done, ( flue, floor clearance, etc.) were probable non written into the codes like they are in today'due south codes. Homes being sold every bit office of estates are ordinarily sold for money and hold no emotional value to the seller. It sounds like everything you mentioned would not stop me from purchasing the home. If the dwelling house fits your want list, and every matter is fixable, go for information technology! You have nothing to lose and it sounds like a dandy investment! Enjoy your journey!
Whatsoever the selection--structural engineer, contractor---equally to who checks out the croaky rafter, its being there is a negotiating point on making the auction. I would want to know for certain just what is going on with the rafter before developing an offer.
I concord with Melissa & Hope, I'm a warranty rep for a single family home builder & this is a common request I receive a few times a year. My framer just sisters long 2x four due south on either side of the crack with the appropriate number of nails or screws. Costs to me is usually 90 bucks plus a few boards.
Ron, the inspector didn't come across any foundation or settling issues. To me, the rafter just looks like it weakened over the years (perhaps a flaw in the lumber??) and started to "split."
Susan, This business firm is on a lake (rare in my area) and priced ~$15,000 lower than it should be (the reason I can afford it in the starting time place). The seller has stated they won't repair anything. I am comfortable enough keeping my offer equally is. I will take some $ in reserve for any major issues that could crop up too). I know the market around here and realize that cracked rafter or not, this firm is a bargain.
JHunt, cheers for your input---I was thinking it probably wasn't a *MAJOR* issue but am hoping the primary's think it is (along with all the other small-scale stuff the inspector establish) and will walk away from the bargain.
Expert luck, Scrappykat! Sounds similar y'all know what you lot're in for. Lake front is special.
Sounds similar near of the Repairs would exist easy and low Cost Fixes.. We bought a house that was here when my Dad was a kid... it had minimal electrical wiring, plumbing etc..since my Dad was a Carpenter/contractor with over 50 yrs experience + my blood brother is Electrician, we felt very Condom in Buying and Remodeling this house.. I at present know how to Tape and Finish Drywall.. sure saved the states a agglomeration of money doing all this piece of work our selves.. and my other Brother helped u.s.a. install the replacement Windows... so we are all ready..
If the rafter is completely exposed you're in luck; only "sis" (i.e. add a 2d rafter to the damaged ane) the rafter with the aforementioned size piece of lumber. Some say you lot only have to patch the damaged area going a few few beyond the crack on either end, merely if you tin sister the whole matter and you wont need to worry most future potential cracks. Good luck
Everyone's comments well-nigh "sistering": in on either side of the rafter are correct. I prefer to bolt through both sides of the added support to increase the load that can exist carried over nails. In your northern climes, it could have been snow or ice weight that broke the rafter, A larger business concern to me would be the electrical i.e. "no GFCI and some "amateur" wiring, inadequate vapor barrier in crawl space, banality not elevated". Cheque with your insurance agent, I have been told that wiring done by a non-licensed electrician that causes a fire later on can brand the homeowners insurance null and void. I have purchased many houses over my lifetime and the few hundred dollars y'all volition spend for a licensed electrician to bring everything to code is coin well spent. I have rewired entire houses, but when I was washed I have the licensed electrician inspect all my work and the and so the city edifice inspector give last approval.
Carol on Apr 06, 2022
I believe the term is called "scabbing on". You lot scab on two boards, one on either side of the cracked one. This will fix the trouble. If it is the only 1 that cracked information technology may have been a lath that shouldn't take been used in the offset place. If it has sagged a petty, it would need to be jacked upwards a little. Sounds very complicated, only in reality it'due south not. A carpenter will know what to do. On another note, these inspectors observe the most hideous things to bring up in an inspection. It scares the hell out of a buyer....just to permit you realtors know. The problems...when idea on for a mean solar day....are really not that hard to fix. (usually)
I believe it'southward a term used differently depending on where you lot live. My husband calls a staub and I telephone call information technology a stake.
Dwelling house owner should repair this. It can be repaired, but should non be your responsibleness. If the homeowner volition not repair, what else are they hiding. I had this happen in one of my previous homes, was a piece of cake fix, merely required a person who knew what they were doing to resupport with a new board on both sides. You lot may desire an engineer to wait at it a fiddling closer.
Nancy on Apr 06, 2022
I think information technology depends on the location of the cleft as to whether information technology would exist a problem. Even kiln-stale lumber can accept a "problem" known as checking, which is zippo more than than the lumber drying out onsite and is usual in the thicker pieces of lumber. If the crack is in the middle of the rafter, rather than at the edge of the rafter, it isn't as big a problem, IMHO.
I agree with Nancy. If information technology is just one rafter that is croaky. if there is no visible sagging in the wall below it, and you are nonetheless concerned a 6 inch fissure can exist helped with a sister rafter nailed to it.Simply be careful of whatsoever wiring. But our of curiosity how much snowfall do you unremarkably get? The roof has a depression pitch?
The rafter is exposed on both sides so "scabbing on" would piece of work---and it is in the middle, non an edge. There is no wiring---this is in the cranium ceiling. Nosotros can get lots of snowfall here :/
Thank you everyone for your input and comments---they've really helped me with my conclusion to continue pushing forrad on this domicile purchase---I but promise I get it :)
If the inspection is for a mortgage that is some other story and you should speak to the inspector most the types of repairs required in your area. ...and the 'path' to repair, you might find featherbrained requirements in some areas, including a structural engineers stance before any repair is begun...
This wasn't the appraisal done by a depository financial institution for a mortgage. It was the inspection done for the primary buyers (I have a secondary offer in). I just heard that the primary has 2 days to make a decision near whether they will accept the firm "As Is," so I volition hopefully know something on Wednesday. Cantankerous your fingers for me considering I really desire this place! :)
Considering the house is 40 years quondam, I would suggest have a licensed contractor bolt a sister-rafter of equivalent size to the side of it. Non hard to gear up and you have remedied the problem.
Is the rafter part of a truss? Or is it a stick built business firm with the rafters cut and raised by the framers after the ceiling joists were installed? If it is a rafter the comments concerning "sistering" are correct. I would go one step further and install a purlin across the crack and the next iii or 4 rafters...After doing this I would so caryatid on a diagonal to the superlative of a wall nearby....This will prevent any sagging under snow loads....
I am not sure----the rafter is attached to the top of the attic---information technology was stick built
Go 3 estimates for repairs. Take the eye one. Ask the seller to take that amount less on the house auction for repairs. Good luck!
And so do the "sistering" and purlin and you won't have to worry about it.
Become two 3 pes long pieces of the same size wood (the rafter) screw them to each side of the cracked part, make sure the new pieces cover the crack at the middle. Then get 4 half inch bolts long enough to go through the thickness of the rafter and the 2 new pieces. Drill through the middle of the wood at equal distances and apply washers and bolts, yous should have 8 of each. This is plenty to fix it for yous.
@scrappykat I am no skilful in this area, merely the inspector should have explained the implications of a croaky rafter. You may want to telephone them back and ask that question. I would be a little concerned that over time it could bear upon the support of the roof. Check with the experts. If y'all could it would be great to update this post with your findings. Thanks for posting.
TY for your answer :) The inspector advised us to contact a contractor and accept them check it and see about a "repair." I am the secondary offer, and so but got the written report ---wasn't actually at the inspection.
I spoke with my Brother(who is a home builder) and he said information technology shouldn't cost that much to fix depending on where it's at. Sometimes you can nail the same size boards on the sides of it. But without knowing for sure if it's an angle brace or the top or bottom cord he can't tell you for sure. There are deviation factors that he would need to know like how far the span of the roof is etc. But either style it shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars.
Concord with Melissa. If information technology'southward in the long straight part, it'southward only a matter of sistering both sides and then your good to go. If it is a "joint" position, information technology would exist a little more involved. But not to a point that it would deter me .
TY all for the corking news!!! :) I take a picture of it simply its imbedded in a .pdf and I don't know how to go the picture out to post :? It is on the bottom of a long rafter, not at a joint, so information technology makes sense that information technology reinforcing it on either side would take care of it---whew! A relief---now I'k Really hoping I go this identify (my realtor is thinking the inspection report might scare off the primary buyers....).
Promise, there was/is no termite inspection. Never had i of these in all the homes I've bought and sold (or that my parents have bought and sold). Perhaps it'south because of our climate or something, just I don't believe termites are an issue effectually here???
OK, and then you didn't have to pay for an inspection, why not spend a couple hundred bucks to get a structural engineer to look at the attic. In my feel as a Realtor, well-nigh good engineers requite a detailed study including the proper ready. In many cases, the fix can be done by the buyer or current homeowner themselves. Or, if you choose to fix without having an engineer check information technology starting time, have i wait at information technology after the repair to make sure yous've done everything correctly. This is a serious business organization and should be checked by a professional.
Why did information technology suspension? Has to be a reason and it won't exist practiced, I would have a contractor look at it, foundation settle?
Good Thought Morgan. If I become the primary, I will exercise that, among other things. The inspection report revealed lots of (what in my mind) little things----no GFCI and some "amateur" wiring, inadequate vapor barrier in crawl space, banality not elevated properly, hot h2o heater flue too close to insulation in attic (and no fire proof barrier), inadequate wall betwixt garage and house, some pest droppings (house has been empty for several months---its being sold every bit role of an estate), etc. then there will be lots to set :/ It's on h2o though and the toll is practiced so I really want information technology. Seller isn't going to ready any of these things (I did get them to give me $5000 at endmost toward a new roof which is nearing the end of its life co-ordinate to the inspection report).
Whatsoever the selection--structural engineer, contractor---equally to who checks out the croaky rafter, its being there is a negotiating point on making the auction. I would want to know for certain just what is going on with the rafter before developing an offer.
I concord with Melissa & Hope, I'm a warranty rep for a single family home builder & this is a common request I receive a few times a year. My framer just sisters long 2x four due south on either side of the crack with the appropriate number of nails or screws. Costs to me is usually 90 bucks plus a few boards.
Ron, the inspector didn't come across any foundation or settling issues. To me, the rafter just looks like it weakened over the years (perhaps a flaw in the lumber??) and started to "split."
Susan, This business firm is on a lake (rare in my area) and priced ~$15,000 lower than it should be (the reason I can afford it in the starting time place). The seller has stated they won't repair anything. I am comfortable enough keeping my offer equally is. I will take some $ in reserve for any major issues that could crop up too). I know the market around here and realize that cracked rafter or not, this firm is a bargain.
JHunt, cheers for your input---I was thinking it probably wasn't a *MAJOR* issue but am hoping the primary's think it is (along with all the other small-scale stuff the inspector establish) and will walk away from the bargain.
Expert luck, Scrappykat! Sounds similar y'all know what you lot're in for. Lake front is special.
Sounds similar near of the Repairs would exist easy and low Cost Fixes.. We bought a house that was here when my Dad was a kid... it had minimal electrical wiring, plumbing etc..since my Dad was a Carpenter/contractor with over 50 yrs experience + my blood brother is Electrician, we felt very Condom in Buying and Remodeling this house.. I at present know how to Tape and Finish Drywall.. sure saved the states a agglomeration of money doing all this piece of work our selves.. and my other Brother helped u.s.a. install the replacement Windows... so we are all ready..
If the rafter is completely exposed you're in luck; only "sis" (i.e. add a 2d rafter to the damaged ane) the rafter with the aforementioned size piece of lumber. Some say you lot only have to patch the damaged area going a few few beyond the crack on either end, merely if you tin sister the whole matter and you wont need to worry most future potential cracks. Good luck
Everyone's comments well-nigh "sistering": in on either side of the rafter are correct. I prefer to bolt through both sides of the added support to increase the load that can exist carried over nails. In your northern climes, it could have been snow or ice weight that broke the rafter, A larger business concern to me would be the electrical i.e. "no GFCI and some "amateur" wiring, inadequate vapor barrier in crawl space, banality not elevated". Cheque with your insurance agent, I have been told that wiring done by a non-licensed electrician that causes a fire later on can brand the homeowners insurance null and void. I have purchased many houses over my lifetime and the few hundred dollars y'all volition spend for a licensed electrician to bring everything to code is coin well spent. I have rewired entire houses, but when I was washed I have the licensed electrician inspect all my work and the and so the city edifice inspector give last approval.
Carol on Apr 06, 2022
I believe the term is called "scabbing on". You lot scab on two boards, one on either side of the cracked one. This will fix the trouble. If it is the only 1 that cracked information technology may have been a lath that shouldn't take been used in the offset place. If it has sagged a petty, it would need to be jacked upwards a little. Sounds very complicated, only in reality it'due south not. A carpenter will know what to do. On another note, these inspectors observe the most hideous things to bring up in an inspection. It scares the hell out of a buyer....just to permit you realtors know. The problems...when idea on for a mean solar day....are really not that hard to fix. (usually)Dwelling house owner should repair this. It can be repaired, but should non be your responsibleness. If the homeowner volition not repair, what else are they hiding. I had this happen in one of my previous homes, was a piece of cake fix, merely required a person who knew what they were doing to resupport with a new board on both sides. You lot may desire an engineer to wait at it a fiddling closer.
Nancy on Apr 06, 2022
I think information technology depends on the location of the cleft as to whether information technology would exist a problem. Even kiln-stale lumber can accept a "problem" known as checking, which is zippo more than than the lumber drying out onsite and is usual in the thicker pieces of lumber. If the crack is in the middle of the rafter, rather than at the edge of the rafter, it isn't as big a problem, IMHO.I agree with Nancy. If information technology is just one rafter that is croaky. if there is no visible sagging in the wall below it, and you are nonetheless concerned a 6 inch fissure can exist helped with a sister rafter nailed to it.Simply be careful of whatsoever wiring. But our of curiosity how much snowfall do you unremarkably get? The roof has a depression pitch?
The rafter is exposed on both sides so "scabbing on" would piece of work---and it is in the middle, non an edge. There is no wiring---this is in the cranium ceiling. Nosotros can get lots of snowfall here :/
Thank you everyone for your input and comments---they've really helped me with my conclusion to continue pushing forrad on this domicile purchase---I but promise I get it :)
If the inspection is for a mortgage that is some other story and you should speak to the inspector most the types of repairs required in your area. ...and the 'path' to repair, you might find featherbrained requirements in some areas, including a structural engineers stance before any repair is begun...
This wasn't the appraisal done by a depository financial institution for a mortgage. It was the inspection done for the primary buyers (I have a secondary offer in). I just heard that the primary has 2 days to make a decision near whether they will accept the firm "As Is," so I volition hopefully know something on Wednesday. Cantankerous your fingers for me considering I really desire this place! :)
Considering the house is 40 years quondam, I would suggest have a licensed contractor bolt a sister-rafter of equivalent size to the side of it. Non hard to gear up and you have remedied the problem.
Is the rafter part of a truss? Or is it a stick built business firm with the rafters cut and raised by the framers after the ceiling joists were installed? If it is a rafter the comments concerning "sistering" are correct. I would go one step further and install a purlin across the crack and the next iii or 4 rafters...After doing this I would so caryatid on a diagonal to the superlative of a wall nearby....This will prevent any sagging under snow loads....
I am not sure----the rafter is attached to the top of the attic---information technology was stick built
Go 3 estimates for repairs. Take the eye one. Ask the seller to take that amount less on the house auction for repairs. Good luck!
And so do the "sistering" and purlin and you won't have to worry about it.
Become two 3 pes long pieces of the same size wood (the rafter) screw them to each side of the cracked part, make sure the new pieces cover the crack at the middle. Then get 4 half inch bolts long enough to go through the thickness of the rafter and the 2 new pieces. Drill through the middle of the wood at equal distances and apply washers and bolts, yous should have 8 of each. This is plenty to fix it for yous.